Wednesday, July 10, 2024

2024 Turkey: The Sultan Ahmet Mosque (The Blue Mosque) II

 The outer view of the Sultan Ahmet Mosque with one of the exterior gates.  We entered through the side.



The mosque has a total of six minarets (The long thin structures from which the call to prayer is made).  It is one of five mosques in Turkey that has six minarets and was the first outside of Mecca at the time to have six minarets; as the story goes Sultan Ahmet had a seventh minaret built at Mecca to apologize for the presumption.


The side entrance to the main mosque.  To the left just out of view is where ablutions are done by worshippers.


The main courtyard of the mosque:


The shadirvan, a fountain where ablutions were done in older times:


The main gate leading to the outside:


Another view of a minaret:


Looking at the mosque from the courtyard:


One of the exterior domes in the courtyard wall:


Looking through the gate:





Tuesday, July 09, 2024

2024 Turkey: The Sultan Ahmet Mosque (The Blue Mosque) I

The Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Turkish: Sultan Ahmet Camii) was built between A.D. 1609 and 1617 in Istanbul, Turkey.  Commissioned by Sultan Ahmed I (ruled A.D. 1603 to 1617), it occupies a plot of land which was originally part of the Hippodrome (bleachers and the old Imperial Box), and in Ottoman times had become a location for palaces of various Grand Viziers.  The mosque was built under somewhat of a cloud:  the tradition was that new Imperial mosques should be built only from funds gained from conquest, and Ahmed I had no conquests.  He went ahead and commissioned the mosque; although initially under interdict of the religious body of scholars known as the ulema, it came to be seen as an architectural wonder and won over both the ulema and public opinion.

(Interior of the Blue Mosque)

The mosque was designed by the architect Sedefkar Mehmed Agha, himself a student of the very famous architect Mimar Sinan.  The Sultan Ahmet Mosque consumed the remaining years of Sedefkar Mehmet's life; he died around the time the mosque was finally finished.

(The Main dome)

The mosque is more colloquial known as "The Blue Mosque" due to the presence of thousands of fired ceramic tiles which have been painted, many with blue. The tiles, known as Iznik tiles (their region of origin, originally the ancient city of Nicea) number over 21,000 in number.  Due to the nature of the material the tiles were made of (higher in quartz), they are more expensive and more beautiful than typical tiles.  

(View of the smaller domes)

Somewhat like Hagia Sophia, the mosque consists of a large central dome which rises 141ft/43 m above the main floor and is 77 ft/23.5 m in diameter. Four main pillars support the dome, and lesser pendentive help transfer the weight to lesser domes.  The floor space of the mosque proper 210 x 236 ft/65 x 72 m.

(There are a total of 260 windows in the mosque, which allow natural light in)

(The Main Dome)

(Looking straight up at the Main Dome)

(Apparently some of the finest tiles are higher up in the mosque where visitors cannot easily see them)










Monday, July 08, 2024

The Rabbits Have Landed

 We have safely arrived.

(The Bunnies at New Home 2.0)

The travel day "started" at 1600 or so, when I cleaned the rabbit enclosures (their cages were in New Home 2.0 already).  The rabbits knew something was up when their litterboxes did not come back into the cages after cleaning.  Joy got nervous as she always does; I-Bun just hopped around as he always does, fearless and looking for attention for himself.

Around 1745 the rabbits went into their carriers and we were off to the airport.  They tend to dig more into the towels in their carriers when we are going somewhere; they do not enjoy travel. At all.  

At the airport, checking in itself was not an issue - as I mentioned before, only two airlines in the US will take rabbits in the cabin: Alaska and Spirit.  We took Alaska Airlines; as the rabbits were already noted as pets on the ticket, it was not a big deal:  pay an additional $100 per rabbits and off you go.  The only proviso is they have to be in soft carriers.

(I-Bun and Joy in their new home.  Note the portable AC unit:  they live better than we do.)

TSA was only a bit of an issue:  The rabbits have to come out of their carrier and the carrier goes through the scanner.  The Ravishing Mrs. TB prefers that I hold them if possible.  I took Joy through the line, at which point the problem occurred:  I could not go back through and get I-Bun.  The resolution was to have her come through and sit with our luggage and Joy while I-Bun and I got to go to the private screening room where he was de-carriered and the carrier taken back to scan while I sat in their with a TSA agent. Everyone was super friendly and it was no big deal; one of the agents said this was the second pet scan she had that day for someone going to New Home 2.0.

(Joy says hi.  Also, send papaya pellets.)
After we got through security, we went to our gate for a short wait. Our plane was (of course delayed), so it was almost 30 minutes after we were supposed to board that we got on.  The rabbits were okay, although still agitated.  Joy is my bigger fear, as she is more sensitive.  

We just walked up for the pre-board with pets; no-one gave us any grief.  We got on, put the rabbits under the seat, and got ready to go.

The flight was a little over four hours.  I checked several times on I-Bun under my seat and The Ravishing Mrs. TB checked under hers for Joy.  The lack of noise and darkness helped a great deal and they seemed much calmer.  One recommendation that I had read was bringing wet lettuce for them to eat; I put a few leaves in.  I-Bun ate his right away.  Joy did not eat hers immediately, but it was gone by the time I checked the next day.  

If you think I was freaking out during this entire trip, you would be correct.


(The Mighty I-Bun)

By the time we got our luggage, got to the parking lot, and got home, it was after 0000.  The rabbits got put in their cages, litter boxes/food bowls/water bottles filled, and we went to bed around 0100.

I watched them like a hawk yesterday - rabbits tend to conceal issues that they have until they just keel over.  I even bribed them with lettuce, apples, and snacks - all of which they ate.  I am feeling relatively confident that we had a relatively successful trip.

Thank you all for your kind thoughts and well wishes.  I think the biggest stress point of the move is now successfully completed.

Saturday, July 06, 2024

Operation Rabbit Transport

 Friends - As you read this missive I find myself preparing to return from  New Home to New Home 2.0, mostly for the purpose of transporting the rabbits.

The transport of the rabbits has been the heaviest thing on my mind about this whole move (Yes, I know:  relocation, a new job, moving things - and this is your concern?).  Rabbits are not as easy to move as dogs or cats, for example.  Most airlines will not take them, which leaves the option of either driving them yourself or paying rather hefty fee for relocation of said bunnies.  And rabbits can be sensitive to environmental changes.  

It has created a rather large amount of stress in my life.  But the rabbits need to come out to be with me long term.  And where there is a will, there is a way.

I had toyed with the idea of ground transport, but both our veterinarian and the rabbit shelter director said that driving would be equally or even more stressful than a four hour plane flight.  And it turns out that while most airlines will not take rabbits, two still will:  Alaska Airlines and Spirit Airlines (go figure).  Alaska flies to where we are - a direct flight, as it turns out.  They can fly in the cabin under the seat in soft sided carriers (extra fees apply of course - but that is, interestingly, reimbursable).

The cages, litters, hay and food all came out with the moves.  A portable air conditioner has been procured to make sure the rabbits are cool enough (rabbits do not do well over 80 F or so).  The litter boxes, food dishes, water bottles, and snacks are in New Home.  

Today, we bring it all together.

If all goes well - and I am sincerely hoping it will - in the late afternoon we will place the rabbits in their soft carriers, empty and clean the litterboxes and pack them in garbage bags in a suitcase, empty the food and water bowls and put them in the suitcase, pack up the snacks and medication, and drive to the airport.  After getting through security (the rabbits will have to come out of their carriers - that should be "exciting" ) we will quietly sit in the lounge until boarding.  The Ravishing Mrs. TB very kindly upgraded our seats so we can get on earlier and have a bit more space.  If all goes well, 4.5 or so hours later we should land at New Home 2.0, where we will go to the parked car, drive back to the apartment, and ensconce the rabbits in their new home.  And then go to bed.

At least, that is the plan.

I keep comforting myself with the idea that the whole operation will take less than eight hours.  And while one cannot medicate rabbits the same way one can medicate dogs or cats (they are pretty sensitive to medication), one can give them things like lettuce to encourage them to chew and help with the air pressure.

I do not know that this rises to the level of a prayer request, but good thoughts would always be appreciated.

Friday, July 05, 2024

2024 Turkey: Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia) II

Upon capture of the city by the Ottoman Turks on 29 May A.D. 1453, Mehmed the Conqueror entered the city.  The day of conquest was a Tuesday;  Mehmed ordered the church converted to a mosque by Friday.  Architects removed the altar and reoriented the items at the front of the church towards Mecca; that following Friday Mehmed entered the former church and gave the sermon and led the Friday Prayers, completing the conversion.  The now Aya Sofya mosque functioned as a mosque through 1935.

(Seraphim mosaic)

A story has it that Mehmed killed a soldier upon his first entry who had tried to pull up a piece of the marble.  He knew the value of the church he had conquered.


(View towards the floor. The velvet rope encloses the original marble floor of the church.)

(Looking towards the former altar)

The mosque was continuously in use through 1934, even during the Allied Occupation following World War 1 (in which a rogue Orthodox priest performed a service in the mosque, the only such service since its fall).  In 1935, as part of his overall policy of dis-establishment of religion Mustafa Kemal Ataturk converted the Ayasofya Mosque into a museum, which it remained through A.D. 2020.

(View of the dome)

In 2020, Turkish President Erdogan reconverted the museum back to a mosque. As a result of the transfer, visitors such as us (and apparently even Muslim non-parishioners) are no longer allowed on the main floor, thus all these pictures are from the upper gallery.  This was the only mosque where this was the case during our visit.

(Ceiling paintings)

(Full view of the former altar)

(A different cherubim)



Although a not great picture (thanks to a plastic coating), the above is graffiti from a bored Norseman, likely a member of the Emperor's Varangian guard.  It is believed to say "Halfdan was here".


One of the great treasures of the Ayasofia is the remaining mosaics, which once filled its walls.

(The Emperor John II Komnenos (A.D. 1087-1143 and Empress Irene (of Hungary) (? - A.D. 1134)  

(A mosaic of the Empress Zoe (A.D. 978 - 1050) and Emperor Constantine IX (c. A.D. 980 - 1055)


(View of the pillars)

(The grave of Enrico Dandolo, Doge of Venice and leader of the 4th Crusade, which destroyed and looted Constantinople.)

(The Deesis Mosaic with the Virgin Mary, Christ as Pantokrator, and John the Baptist)

(Another Deesis Mosaic with the Virgin Mary, Christ as Pantokrator, and John the Baptist)


(View of the mosaics looking up)

(Mosaics, likely of the apostles)


(Mosaic of Emperor Justinian and Emperor Constantine presenting the Hagia Sophia to the Madonna and Christ)

Thursday, July 04, 2024

Independence Day 2024

(Editor's note:  It appears that I have published the Declaration of Independence regularly since 2016. Now, more than every, we need to be reminded both of the responsibilities and rights we hold as citizens, not serfs or mensch.) 

When, in the course of human events, it becomes necessary for one people to dissolve the political bands which have connected them with another, and to assume among the powers of the earth, the separate and equal station to which the laws of nature and of nature's God entitle them, a decent respect to the opinions of mankind requires that they should declare the causes which impel them to the separation.


 We hold these truths to be self-evident, that all men are created equal, that they are endowed by their Creator with certain unalienable rights, that among these are life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness. That to secure these rights, governments are instituted among men, deriving their just powers from the consent of the governed. That whenever any form of government becomes destructive to these ends, it is the right of the people to alter or to abolish it, and to institute new government, laying its foundation on such principles and organizing its powers in such form, as to them shall seem most likely to effect their safety and happiness. Prudence, indeed, will dictate that governments long established should not be changed for light and transient causes; and accordingly all experience hath shown that mankind are more disposed to suffer, while evils are sufferable, than to right themselves by abolishing the forms to which they are accustomed. But when a long train of abuses and usurpations, pursuing invariably the same object evinces a design to reduce them under absolute despotism, it is their right, it is their duty, to throw off such government, and to provide new guards for their future security. --Such has been the patient sufferance of these colonies; and such is now the necessity which constrains them to alter their former systems of government. The history of the present King of Great Britain is a history of repeated injuries and usurpations, all having in direct object the establishment of an absolute tyranny over these states. To prove this, let facts be submitted to a candid world.

He has refused his assent to laws, the most wholesome and necessary for the public good.

He has forbidden his governors to pass laws of immediate and pressing importance, unless suspended in their operation till his assent should be obtained, and when so suspended, he has utterly neglected to attend to them.

He has refused to pass other laws for the accommodation of large districts of people, unless those people would relinquish the right of representation in the legislature, a right inestimable to them and formidable to tyrants only.

He has called together legislative bodies at places unusual, uncomfortable, and distant from the depository of their public records, for the sole purpose of fatiguing them into compliance with his measures.

He has dissolved representative houses repeatedly, for opposing with manly firmness his invasions on the rights of the people.

He has refused for a long time, after such dissolutions, to cause others to be elected; whereby the legislative powers, incapable of annihilation, have returned to the people at large for their exercise; the state remaining in the meantime exposed to all the dangers of invasion from without, and convulsions within.

He has endeavored to prevent the population of these states; for that purpose obstructing the laws for naturalization of foreigners; refusing to pass others to encourage their migration hither, and raising the  conditions of new appropriations of lands.

He has obstructed the administration of justice, by refusing his assent to laws for establishing judiciary powers.

He has made judges dependent on his will alone, for the tenure of their offices, and the amount and payment of their salaries.

He has erected a multitude of new offices, and sent hither swarms of officers to harass our people, and eat out their substance.

He has kept among us, in times of peace, standing armies without the consent of our legislature.

He has affected to render the military independent of and superior to civil power.

He has combined with others to subject us to a jurisdiction foreign to our constitution, and unacknowledged by our laws; giving his assent to their acts of pretended legislation:
For quartering large bodies of armed troops among us:

For protecting them, by mock trial, from punishment for any murders which they should commit on the inhabitants of these states:

For cutting off our trade with all parts of the world:

For imposing taxes on us without our consent:

For depriving us in many cases, of the benefits of trial by jury:

For transporting us beyond seas to be tried for pretended offenses:

For abolishing the free system of English laws in a neighboring province, establishing therein an arbitrary government, and enlarging its boundaries so as to render it at once an example and fit instrument for introducing the same absolute rule in these colonies:

For taking away our charters, abolishing our most valuable laws, and altering fundamentally the forms of our governments:

For suspending our own legislatures, and declaring themselves invested with power to legislate for us in all cases whatsoever.

He has abdicated government here, by declaring us out of his protection and waging war against us.

He has plundered our seas, ravaged our coasts, burned our towns, and destroyed the lives of our people.

He is at this time transporting large armies of foreign mercenaries to complete the works of death, desolation and tyranny, already begun with circumstances of cruelty and perfidy scarcely paralleled in the most barbarous ages, and totally unworthy the head of a civilized nation.



He has constrained our fellow citizens taken captive on the high seas to bear arms against their country, to become the executioners of their friends and brethren, or to fall themselves by their hands.
He has excited domestic insurrections amongst us, and has endeavored to bring on the inhabitants of our frontiers, the merciless Indian savages, whose known rule of warfare, is undistinguished destruction of all ages, sexes and conditions.

In every stage of these oppressions we have petitioned for redress in the most humble terms: our repeated petitions have been answered only by repeated injury. A prince, whose character is thus marked by every act which may define a tyrant, is unfit to be the ruler of a free people.
Nor have we been wanting in attention to our British brethren. We have warned them from time to time of attempts by their legislature to extend an unwarrantable jurisdiction over us. We have reminded them of the circumstances of our emigration and settlement here. We have appealed to their native justice and magnanimity, and we have conjured them by the ties of our common kindred to disavow these usurpations, which, would inevitably interrupt our connections and correspondence. They too have been deaf to the voice of justice and of consanguinity. We must, therefore, acquiesce in the necessity, which denounces our separation, and hold them, as we hold the rest of mankind, enemies in war, in peace friends.

We, therefore, the representatives of the United States of America, in General Congress, assembled, appealing to the Supreme Judge of the world for the rectitude of our intentions, do, in the name, and by the authority of the good people of these colonies, solemnly publish and declare, that these united colonies are, and of right ought to be free and independent states; that they are absolved from all allegiance to the British Crown, and that all political connection between them and the state of Great Britain, is and ought to be totally dissolved; and that as free and independent states, they have full power to levy war, conclude peace, contract alliances, establish commerce, and to do all other acts and things which independent states may of right do. And for the support of this declaration, with a firm reliance on the protection of Divine Providence, we mutually pledge to each other our lives, our fortunes and our sacred honor.


New Hampshire: Josiah Bartlett, William Whipple, Matthew Thornton
Massachusetts: John Hancock, Samuel Adams, John Adams, Robert Treat Paine, Elbridge Gerry
Rhode Island: Stephen Hopkins, William Ellery
Connecticut: Roger Sherman, Samuel Huntington, William Williams, Oliver Wolcott
New York: William Floyd, Philip Livingston, Francis Lewis, Lewis Morris
New Jersey: Richard Stockton, John Witherspoon, Francis Hopkinson, John Hart, Abraham Clark
Pennsylvania: Robert Morris, Benjamin Rush, Benjamin Franklin, John Morton, George Clymer, James Smith, George Taylor, James Wilson, George Ross
Delaware: Caesar Rodney, George Read, Thomas McKean
Maryland: Samuel Chase, William Paca, Thomas Stone, Charles Carroll of Carrollton
Virginia: George Wythe, Richard Henry Lee, Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Harrison, Thomas Nelson, Jr., Francis Lightfoot Lee, Carter Braxton
North Carolina: William Hooper, Joseph Hewes, John Penn
South Carolina: Edward Rutledge, Thomas Heyward, Jr., Thomas Lynch, Jr., Arthur Middleton
Georgia: Button Gwinnett, Lyman Hall, George Walton
Source: The Pennsylvania Packet, July 8, 1776

Wednesday, July 03, 2024

2024 Turkey: Ayasofya (Hagia Sophia) I

 The Ayasofya (Full Name:  Ayasofya-i Kebir Cami-i Åžerifi, or The Grand Mosque of Aya Sofia) inherits its name from the former Greek name Hagia Sophia  (Ἁγία Σοφία) or Church of Holy Wisdom.  This is the third church that has stood on this site: the first was built by the Emperor Constantius II during the mid-fourth Century A.D. and consecrated in A.D. 360; the second was built by the Emperor Theodosius II in the late fourth/early fifth Century A.D. and consecrated in A.D. 415.  

Looking towards the Ayasofya from the Hippodrome

In A.D. 532 as part of the outcome of the Nika Riots (where, as you may recall, the Emperor Justinian had up to 30,000 citizens murdered in the vicinity of where the above picture was taken, the Hippodrome), the existing church burned.  The Emperor Justinian - he the builder of the Basilica Cistern we visited earlier, as well as the reconquest of Italy and North Africa and establishment of the legal corpus known as the Code of Justinian - made no small plans here either; he desired to build a church like no other. Fortunately the church was now gone, which made a redesign convenient.  Within three weeks of the burning of the Second Hagia Sophia, the third construction - our current one- was initiated. 

(Entrance)


(View of the ceiling above the entrance - A.D. 6th century brick)

The church is notable for a number of different features.  It remains one of the greatest remaining examples of Byzantine Architecture.  The wealth of an empire expanding its borders (temporarily, as it turns out) poured into its building.  And we are fortunate that the 6th Century A.D. historian Procopius, who recorded other aspects of Justinian's reign, also wrote on the construction of the Hagia Sofia as as well - it took 5 years to build and employed over 10,000 laborers.  

(Interior View of the Ceiling)

(View of the hall of the second floor)

The finished construction was not without issue.  The construction was rushed and partially as result, perhaps more prone to earthquakes.  A smaller dome collapsed in A.D. 558.  Justinian ordered the restoration; The main vault was redesigned and raised another 20.5 ft to a height of 182 ft./55.6 m. which is its current height.  That was certainly not the last repair to the structure, which has gone numerous restorations (not surprising, given the geologic activity in the area).  The church remained the largest church in Europe for 1,000 years, until the construction of the Seville Cathedral.

(View of the main interior)

The Dome of Hagia Sophia remains one of the great marvels of late Antiquity/early Medieval architecture, as it is the largest pendentive dome in its time and up to the completion of St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome.  In broken non-architect language, they put a round dome on a square base by having the corners of the square based transfer the weight down.  Wikipedia's article has a much fuller description.  Short story:  No one had really done this before.

(The Dome of Hagia Sofia)

The interior of the church was sheathed in marble and mosaics decorated it.


(Capital of a column)

(Balustrade)

The church functioned as the heart of Orthodox Christendom for almost 1,000 years.  It was the scene of every sort of drama that one could possibly imagine for the main cathedral of an Empire.

(View of the main floor towards the back)

(View of the side of the church)

The last Christian service held in the Hagia Sophia was likely performed on 29 May A.D.  1453, when the inhabitants of Constantinople prayed for deliverance.  Sometime during that day, the city fell to the Ottoman Turks and the priests were prevented from continuing their services.

(View towards where the altar would have been)

Tuesday, July 02, 2024

Rabbit's Revenge


(Editor's note: Apologies, friends.  The day - and frankly the week - is getting away from me between work, the shortened work, and getting ready for Operation Rabbit Return this weekend.  Accept this offering in the humorous spirit in which it is intended.

Monday, July 01, 2024

The Unexpected Unpacking Of Books

The books are all unpacked.

I had not necessarily intended to unpack all of the books - my thought was to unpack some, put them out, unpack more, put them out, etc.  A rather leisurely affair - after all, I was in no hurry to remove them, and being in boxes - even if the boxes were a bit battered - allowed them to be appropriately stacked. 

And then I opened a box.  And there is was, a bent book.

Useful background:  I am probably what qualifies as a book fanatic.  It is not just that I read, it is that I take the condition of books very seriously.  Books were always, always treated well in my house.  One did not fold back pages to mark one's place, one used a book mark.  Covers and dust covers were maintained.  The only potential acceptable damage allowable to a book was wearing on the spine of a paperback, due to either overuse or sweat from reading them when you held them.

So when I opened up the box and found the books haphazardly placed in there, you can imagine what went through my mind.  Worse, I actually found books with bent back covers or bent spines.

Radical action was called for.

And so I unpacked every box of books, something like an additional 25 boxes beyond what I had anticipated unpacking.  There was some bending of spines and covers, and an unnerving moment when I could not find books I anticipated to find there (good news; it was just in a box somewhere else).  But overall, most of the books made it there in one piece.

Then, of course, came the placing of the books upon the shelves.

The good news is that with one exception - the bookshelf we lost in the move - everything fits on the shelves.  There was only one type of book - science fiction/paperbacks, mostly Andre Norton and C.J. Cheyrrh - that had to be double stacked, which I always consider a bit undesirable (books should always be fully displayed), but otherwise everything is single shelf, facing out.  My organization, of course, is completely off and I have no methodology to fix that now - my science fiction, the last box I pulled out, is scattered across five different shelves when it should be one - but that is pretty minor stuff by comparison.

Looking at them on the shelf now, it is pretty readily apparent that I should do nothing but focus on re-reading everything here before I even think of getting something new.  There is, literally, nowhere to put anything new and in that sense, I suffer from an abundance of riches.